{"id":1760,"date":"2016-01-22T09:55:57","date_gmt":"2016-01-22T08:55:57","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/lanieri.com\/blog\/?p=1760"},"modified":"2021-03-14T20:39:48","modified_gmt":"2021-03-14T19:39:48","slug":"guide-to-creating-your-suit-online-wool-fabrics","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.lanieri.com\/en\/guide-to-creating-your-suit-online-wool-fabrics\/","title":{"rendered":"Guide to creating your suit online: wool fabrics"},"content":{"rendered":"

What makes quality wool?<\/b> That\u2019s for sure the first thing you really want to know when you are starting to create a tailored suit<\/a>. \u201cIs it a 160s wool fabric better than a super 100s?<\/b>\u201d and “What does it mean 100s?” are our clients\u2019 most common questions. Well, answers depend on various aspects and on your needs<\/b>. Let\u2019s start from basics.<\/p>\n

Wool fibers<\/b><\/p>\n

A wool fabric is basically an elaborate twist of fibers and their properties determine the quality, value and use of the fabric<\/strong>. You may have seen some of the wool fabrics described as worsted<\/em> and some of them described as woollen<\/em><\/b>. \u00a0These are just the two most important types of wool (long staple vs short staple) spinned and weaved in different ways, resulting in a different look and feel<\/b>.<\/p>\n

\"wo\"<\/a>The majority of men\u2019s suits are made from worsted wool, which refers to a specific<\/b> spinning process that separates long and strong fibers from the others<\/b>. Worsted wool fabrics are made from long fibres which all lie parallel, the natural crimp of the wool is removed, and they form a very tight, hard yarn. What\u2019s the result? Worsted wool looks smoother and lighter<\/b>; woollen wool is much hairier and warmer<\/b>, because it is full of air among the short fibers which acts as insulation.<\/p>\n

But why we’re talking about fibers? This is really important if you want to know what’s that number followed by \u201cS\u201d on the label of wool suits<\/b>.<\/p>\n

Fabric fineness<\/b><\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>The S numbers for worsted fine wool fabrics are intended to state the fineness of the wool fiber used in the product, as measured in micrometres<\/b>. The origin of this measurement system comes from the British Bradford table, representing the number of 560 yard yarns which can be produced with a pound of wool. The S number, as you know, appears as a plural with an ” s ” or ” ‘s ” following the number, such as 100s or 100’s, and comes from the term hanks<\/em>.<\/p>\n

Generally speaking, the higher the fineness number goes, the lighter and finer the cloth produced will be<\/b>. 100s, for example, are perfectly good wools and make fine, sturdy suits for every day, while Super 130s are edging into more of a luxurious, smooth texture. A Super 160 will be incredibly fine and smooth, and anything higher is generally considered to be extremely precious. Ultrafine wools are used to create lightweight fabrics: 250g\/m, 220g\/m or less. The downside is that over 160’s fabrics will be quite delicate and will require most careful treatments.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>The S number<\/strong> often is used in conjunction with the word “super” which originally meant the best wool, can not be used for fabrics made from wool blended<\/strong> with fibers such as mohair and cashmere and also with silk. For these fabrics, the word Super is not permitted. If we want to describe a blended fabric fineness we have to use two separate number, one for each material if possible.<\/p>\n

Fiber fineness is certainly one of the factors determining the quality and performance of a wool product<\/b>, but it is not the only one. Quality of wool also depends on some things such as the fiber length, scale structure, color, and cleanliness<\/b>. The most sought after wool is very thin in diameter (10 to 20 micrometers), long in length (at least 2 to 5 inches), and the fibers themselves are free from defects.<\/p>\n

That said, choosing the right fabric for every season and occasion, surely depends also on weight.<\/p>\n

Fabric weight<\/b><\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>The weight of wool is in fact the other frequently-used metric, and the number always refers to the weight of a single yard of material<\/strong>. Traditional \u201cfour-season\u201d wools<\/strong> (which are generally considered wearable from fall through spring in temperate climates) usually weight between 240 and 270<\/strong>. Summer wool fabrics are below 240<\/strong>, and winter ones are up to 270 gr.<\/strong>. This works for wool fabrics only. A linen fabric could weights 390 but its breathability and strength make it one of the best summer fabrics.<\/p>\n

Thanks to its properties of resilience, durability, physical attractiveness, insulating ability, and comfort wool fabric continues to be the first choice of every well-dressed gentleman.<\/p>\n

There’s<\/span> something better than<\/span> wool<\/span>, in your opinion<\/span>?<\/span><\/span>
\n<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

What makes quality wool? That\u2019s for sure the first thing you really want to know when you are starting to create a tailored suit. \u201cIs it a 160s wool fabric better than a super 100s?\u201d and “What does it mean 100s?” are our clients\u2019 most common questions. Well, answers depend on various aspects and on […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1792,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[430],"tags":[327],"yoast_head":"\nGuide to creating your suit online<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Creating the perfect bespoke suit depends on more than just finding the right style. 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Here\u2019s everything you need to know about wool fabrics.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/blog.lanieri.com\/en\/guide-to-creating-your-suit-online-wool-fabrics\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Lanieri BLOG\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/LanieriOfficial\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2016-01-22T08:55:57+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2021-03-14T19:39:48+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/blog.lanieri.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/The-s-number-4.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"930\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"698\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Lanieri\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@LanieriOfficial\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@LanieriOfficial\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Lanieri\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"3 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/blog.lanieri.com\/en\/guide-to-creating-your-suit-online-wool-fabrics\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/blog.lanieri.com\/en\/guide-to-creating-your-suit-online-wool-fabrics\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Lanieri\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/blog.lanieri.com\/en\/#\/schema\/person\/87e6d8c8328ff7542fa609e45fe7e773\"},\"headline\":\"Guide to creating your suit online: wool fabrics\",\"datePublished\":\"2016-01-22T08:55:57+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2021-03-14T19:39:48+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/blog.lanieri.com\/en\/guide-to-creating-your-suit-online-wool-fabrics\/\"},\"wordCount\":705,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/blog.lanieri.com\/en\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/blog.lanieri.com\/en\/guide-to-creating-your-suit-online-wool-fabrics\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/blog.lanieri.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/The-s-number-4.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"suits\"],\"articleSection\":[\"GUIDE\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\"},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/blog.lanieri.com\/en\/guide-to-creating-your-suit-online-wool-fabrics\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/blog.lanieri.com\/en\/guide-to-creating-your-suit-online-wool-fabrics\/\",\"name\":\"Guide to creating your suit online\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/blog.lanieri.com\/en\/#website\"},\"primaryImageOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/blog.lanieri.com\/en\/guide-to-creating-your-suit-online-wool-fabrics\/#primaryimage\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/blog.lanieri.com\/en\/guide-to-creating-your-suit-online-wool-fabrics\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/blog.lanieri.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/The-s-number-4.jpg\",\"datePublished\":\"2016-01-22T08:55:57+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2021-03-14T19:39:48+00:00\",\"description\":\"Creating the perfect bespoke suit depends on more than just finding the right style. 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